Hangboarding pinch block training. Pinch blocks, Rolling Handles, Loading Pins, Thick Bars.

Hangboarding pinch block training. Climbing-specific exercises, strength training, and flexibility work are essential for overall performance gains and injury prevention. This teaches you how to distribute pressure across your body, but reduces the isometric benefits that may be found in pinch block training. Hangboards, portable hangboards, pinch blocks, and rock climbing training equipment. I have a pinch block, is that something that you would recommend? I feel like that loads the common flexor tendon even more than finger boards, but I didn’t exactly write a book on the subject lol Yeah, it's definitely one of the extremely common myths. I train with a pinch block regularly and I'm a big fan. Oct 25, 2023 · The Exercise To perform pinch block lifts you can purchase a specialized device such as the Lattice Training Quad Block or Tension Climbing Block. Daily hangboarding may lead to stress injuries in fingers and hands due to excessive strain on tendons and bones. For people who are newer to hangboarding, would it be better to do max hangs or repeaters starting off? EDIT: Sorry. From tufas to aretes and even crack climbing, it pays to pinch. Jun 15, 2023 · Supportive Training for Pinches Pinch strength is a complex beast, it’s not just about being strong in the thumb, the wrists come into play and you also need strong fingers to maximize the range of gripping angles. Alternatively, you could build your own device using a sanded block of wood with an eyebolt screwed into one side. While those focus primarily on finger strength, this also builds pinch strength – an essential component of your climbing-specific training. Jul 5, 2018 · For such training goals we should use more rounded edges, with softer edges, compared to half-crimp for open hand training; balls or slopers of different difficulty (slope and diameter) and pinch blocks of different width or depth for the pinch grip workouts (using dead-hangs for improving strength for this latter grip type wouldn't be Forged under guidance from the Gods, crafted from the highest materials known to man. Blocks are excellent for situations like rehabilitation of injury, as you need extremely light weight, but also desire specific and quantifiable progression. My question to the people of climbharder is: What way was the most efficient for you to improve your pinch grip? Was it through climbing routes Mar 28, 2025 · Lattice Training is the world's leading climbing coaching & climbing training plan company. g. I still train high weight half crimp on fingerboard. Improve your grip strength by making or picking up a pair of pinch blocks, like this one from Lattice: Lattice Quad Block. You can take it to the gym and use it for various climbing exercises to enhance your finger strength. I have a pinch block and I think it helps, but not quite as drastically as hangboarding helps with crimping strength. The Quad Block is the latest in grip strength training, a portable pinch block for training and warming-up. Hangboarding and pinch block training could be helpful, but pinch block training is a pretty narrow training tool that I doubt would be the key to improving your climbing. Sep 4, 2025 · Hangboarding is undoubtedly one of the most sport-specific strength exercises that you can do for climbing, aside from climbing itself. They suggest about 9 different hand positions two of which are medium pinch and wide pinch. Chalk and a Nov 21, 2022 · Everyone wants strong fingers, but not everyone understands just how to do it right. a lot. You are not just hanging around hoping for gains. Plus, new hangboard workouts & the best hangboard workouts for beginners. If you can do a deadhang for more than eight to nine seconds with 25 pounds, you’re ready to move to Just anecdotally I made pretty big gains pretty quickly with pinch block training (added a kg on one hand, 1. With four distinct grip sections, this pick-up training tool is designed to challenge and improve every aspect of your grip, making it an essential device for rock climbers, arm wrestlers, grip A COMPLETE Guide to HANGBOARDING Richardsons Climbing 22K subscribers Subscribed Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen shares his home hangboarding routine to help you maintain your climbing strength during the global coronavirus lockdown. Dec 17, 2021 · Assorted Hangs: Minimum Edge Hangs: Training on thin edges has long been a favourite. Pinch Blocks and Pinch Grip Training Training pinch grips is an excellent way to strengthen your fingers and hands for crimping. Remember, even under the best of circumstances, injuries can occur. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance. No-hang devices (sometimes called grip-strength trainers) allow lifting weights rather than hanging bodyweight, useful for precise load management when looking to train finger strength. The routine also coincided with the start of the outdoor climbing season, so I would do the routine as a warm up before going out climbing. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. If you notice a weakness on pockets or open hand generally, switch it around. However, hangboards come with a variety of hold types, each demanding different techniques and muscle engagements. Nov 14, 2023 · Introduction Hangboarding is a fundamental training tool for climbers, offering a targeted way to build finger strength and improve overall climbing performance. Jan 19, 2022 · New episodes of Breaking Beta drop on Wednesdays. Jun 29, 2021 · An 8-week training protocol with increasing weights (HW) significantly improved overall grip strength more than a regular climbing training without the use of a hangboard. Aug 20, 2019 · If you do have the requisite strength, hangboarding in a slightly locked-off position is a good way to maintain that strength while also effectively training finger strength. Built around hanging progressively smaller holds, minimum edge training requires a little bit of masochism and a lot of will power. Curious as to how well 1 arm 20mm tension block weighted no hangs correlate to 20mm edge hangboarding. ) I have been trying to improve my pinch grip. They suggest 1 set, 6 reps, with each rep being 10s hang 5s rest. Apr 24, 2020 · Hangboarding is one of those training tools that is extremely effective, but it is tricky to get right in terms of intensity, frequency, and balance with other forms of training and climbing. Isometric hangs, like hangboarding and pinch hanging, redefine the limits of our strengths. Some effective exercises for developing grip strength include hangboarding, pinch block workouts, and campus board training – just make sure not to overdo it or neglect proper warm-up routines before diving into these intense sessions! Finger strength training by doing lifts using edges or pinch blocs has been around for a while however has recently been growing in popularity. Once you start using it you’ll realize that there is a lot more than meets the eye. 13 which at the time felt like the absolute limit of my… Jan 26, 2024 · While Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine is highly effective for developing finger strength, it is also important to incorporate other exercises into your training regimen. Research studies have documented what thousands of recreational and pro climbers have discovered at home—hangboard training works! Three brief training sessions per week, for four weeks, will yield a noticeable increase in finger strength, especially in those new to hangboard training. . Simply put, it’s a block of wood with an assortment of edges, pinches, pockets, and little crimps. It comes with a strap-loading pin to add weight to the system. No one builds athletes with more experience or expertise. May 10, 2022 · 1. Grip training question I was wondering if anyone has done pinch training as well as hangboarding during the same training cycle? I’m pretty weak in both areas and want to do max hangs/pinches in my next training block but am not sure if it would be too much. To fit this into my climbing routine I do normally which is two days on and one day off, I used the hangboarding as a warm up to board climbing on my small home wall, which is a 45 degrere woody thats 6ft by 9ft. Move beyond traditional hangboarding and explore this game-changing alternative to enhance your pinch grip strength. forgot to mention, no-hang with pinch blocks. In this episode of our Fundamentals Series we cover the big questions in hangboard training and give you two fundamental training sessions every climbing will need if serious about training. May 15, 2023 · INTRO Oh, how things have changed! Two years ago this crazy new finger training method took the climbing community by storm, with Emil and Felix Abrahamsson reporting incredible improvements in finger strength by hangboarding two times per day for 30 days. Aug 12, 2020 · Discover a hangboard routine meant to properly warm you up and build your strength, while preparing you to climb later that same day. You can use the same training methods as mentioned above to work your way up to bodyweight hangboarding. But for beginners, knowing how to start hangboarding, how often to train, and how to mount a hangboard can be daunting. The general consensus seems to be (and also what for example Lattice says): almost always avoid full crimp while hangboarding unless you're a very advanced climber and train it with a purpose for a short period of time half crimp Aug 26, 2024 · Hangboarding, also known as “fingerboarding”, is the best way to train crimp strength once you’ve developed your pulleys and tendons more. I do these grips every other day. Most people blur those lines and wonder why their fingers still feel like cooked noodles halfway up a crux. The “deadlift” movement does require some precautions when lifting heavy loads. Stopwatch: Placed in the climber’s field of view, used to time reps and rest periods. If you’re struggling to see a positive response from a simple approach, seeking professional advice is often your next step. Jan 25, 2021 · This is especially relevant when you’re looking at climbers with unusual/unique training and injury histories. Good question would be though: do you need hangboarding? Is fingerstrength a weakness currently? Sep 4, 2025 · Hangboarding is, for the most part, a high intensity form of training—the exception being some of the specific endurance work detailed later in this article. You are targeting three distinct qualities: maximal finger force, stamina, and endurance. But adding weight will still demand that you pinch harder. Pinch Block TrainingFor More Than Just Pinch Strength For all the popularity hangboarding has gained in this past year, it is a wonder that the pinch block hasn’t made a stronger showing. My shoulders started to feel a little angry towards the end of week two, so I tried to use a pinch block when I could. Nov 9, 2022 · Table of Contents Background and timeline Current abilities and weakness assessment Technique focus with strength base Contribution of strength training to climbing Grade chasing versus completing all problems at level The effect of hangboard and hand strength on climbing Various holds in hangboard Scheduling sessions Summary and Recommendations Optimizing my own climbing routine Compilation Sep 22, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. If you’re starting from scratch, think about building your setup for at-home climbing training to hit five different categories: finger training, shoulder stability, strength training, power training, and core strength. is debated and contested by a lot of training programs and experts/coaches AFAIK. Lattice Crimp and Pinch Block: Best Portable Hangboard for Crimp Strength This compact block from Lattice is a little different from some of the other models on our list. lattice pinch block, tension block). Although, I've recently started pinch block training and that trains the "thumb muscle" and recruits in the upper forearm as well which allegedly, and seemingly seems to help support the wrist better which I have noticed. Nov 29, 2024 · 4. Jun 10, 2020 · Get a set of portables or a pinch block with edges such as the Redge Vers or Redge Blok and hang weights from them while holding the boards up with your fingers. Modulating the weight by switching between hands is also convenient. Edges: Edges range from deep to really shallow (more difficult). Grip the sides of the block using your thumb and fingers. I personally do all of my volume on a hang board and so I'm not doing any of my volume on the block currently but a few months back was using it once a week for pinch training. Warning All Training Board Users: Training on a hangboard carries risk of injury to fingers, arms, shoulders and the joints connecting them. I would just like to chime in that Always use open crimp or switch to a bigger edge. Use an open hand position. Two-Handed Pinch Lift: Hold a pinch block with both hands and lift it off the ground, holding for 5-10 seconds. Whether you’re warming up at the crag, or training finger strength at the gym, a lifting edge (a. Mar 1, 2022 · Hangboarding puts a lot of stress on small muscles and tendons—that’s the point—and this requires that you listen to your body as you progress through the workouts. Oct 26, 2021 · Finger strength is the leading physical component of climbing performance, and hangboarding is the best ways to improve that strength. I'm finding that I need to take large amounts of weight off to do the pinch sets (80 lbs, half bodyweight). When I first started hangboarding, I had just sent my first 5. I don't think pinch training will translate much to your non-pinch strength, but that doesn't mean it isn't useful. Machined from high-quality wood for a skin-friendly feel, it features multiple edge sizes, a top jug, and an adjustable attachment point, Sep 15, 2024 · Pinch-block training is a quick and effective exercise for improving pinch strength. Pinch Block Training for Crushing Power Pinch blocks are an excellent way to strengthen your pinch grip, which is especially useful for outdoor climbing. Finally, they’re fun! Wider pinches are harder. It can be confusing when starting out which is the option best suited to you, should you lift or hangboard? This is a consistent issue for me on 2/3 finger drag grips. In my experience, pinches are similar to slopers in that gripping strength is not as important as technique and body positioning. Hangboard training is the fastest way to build real finger strength if you actually know what you’re training. Apr 24, 2023 · This ability to move your wrist is a big part of why no hang training seems to work so much better for pinch training than currently available fingerboards. 5 kg on the other) in just over a month of pinch block training (one session a week combined with climbing and other hangboarding). ). Initially, Arm-Lifting was used for pinch training to isolate the thumb more effectively. In this Aug 25, 2025 · It's worth noting that edge training is actually a subset of no-hang training, as edges represent just one type of grip position you can work with in this system. lifting block, portable hangboard, no hang device, block pull) is an increasingly popular alternative to traditional hangboarding. There are so many variations in grip strength training methods. A great buy. Whether you're gripping an edge, pinch, pocket, or any other hold type, you're engaging in no-hang training. The Pinch is designed to target and strengthen your thumb and forearm with 5 main pinch grip variations and multiple additional options. By the end of the program my shoulders felt totally fine again. Training strength usually requires isotonic exercises like pull-ups that involve moving the joint through its range of motion, so muscles get stronger at every angle. Quickly becoming a climber essential, this versatile tool—also known as a lifting block, portable hangboard, or no-hang device—is ideal for warming up at the crag or training at the gym, offering an effective alternative to traditional hangboarding. In Gravelle’s opinion, “there’s no reason to add extreme weight. Here are some key recommendations for those with a little more space at their disposal—and those with a little less. I have the block from tension - its really solid, very efficient and economical for the space/weight it takes up. But generally, unless you're hanging your bodyweight + 80lbs or more at max on a hang board I'm kind of aimlessly training and was wondering if anyone has any good opinions on how to properly train. As an alternative, use a pinch block, which is a basic block (made of wood, polyurethane or other materials) from which you hang weights; train your pinch grip using different widths. Learn how the pinch block can help climbers increase more than just pinch strength. Take every precaution to avoid damage to yourself; warm-up, stretch, don't overtrain and listen to your body. Jan 12, 2022 · Pinch strength is hard to gain and easy to ignore until you need it. Although pinch training seems muscular, gripping holds often revolves around the amount of pressure we believe we can deliver. What is often less clear, is what variables Apr 28, 2022 · Much of your initial progression will come from learning how to pinch holds hard. Sep 4, 2025 · Hangboarding is, for the most part, a high intensity form of training—the exception being some of the specific endurance work detailed later in this article. of course you can introduce negative weight for hanging, but that's extra steps. It is also a precise method of training that requires the participant to understand their current maximum strength, which allows them to set the intensity of their session to an exact Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days Emil Abrahamsson 289K subscribers Subscribe by Christopher SchafenackerOk, first things first: any climber who wants to climb as hard as their genetic potential will allow needs to hangboard at some point. So if you have done both types of training, what are your: weighted 1 arm hangs (please include edge size, whether you are just lifting off the Pinch grips are a cornerstone of climbing, demanding robust finger strength and enduring power. #armlifting#shopblocshop#latticetraining#pinchstrength#gripsport#trainingforclimbing#bouldering#hangboarding#escalade#climbing_videos_of_instagram Sep 30, 2024 · Increase the weight as your grip strength improves. Mastering these different types of holds not only helps prevent injury but also maximizes your training efficiency and climbing performance. Dec 13, 2022 · Although the goal is to hang them without compressing, you will likely end up squeezing these blocks to get off the ground. Aug 9, 2023 · No-Hang Systems for Training We used the Stone Hanger during a maximal finger strength development cycle. I've begun hangboarding on the Rock Prodigy hangboard in accordance with the Rock Climber's Training Manual. While these can be suspended and hung from like a traditional hangboard, they can also be attached to weights or a cable-style weight machine. The Quad Block, designed for pinch training, offers a unique avenue for targeted for strengthening your thumb. It seemed like a revelation, especially considering there was even a research paper to help explain how it all worked! But now, two years Mar 20, 2025 · Can I Hangboard Everyday? Hangboarding is a climbing exercise that can be practiced frequently, though intense training should be limited to a few days a week to prevent injuries. I'm about a V4/V5 climber and so was wondering if it would be a good choice for me or if it's intended for higher grades, or if anyone had one themselves. If your fingers or elbows become sore, take a week off, reevaluate your deadhang form, and ease back into your next training session. Hangboarding’s transfer from off-the-wall training to on-the-wall performance is almost instantaneous, especially considering that improvements in finger strength will increase both maximum boulder and sport grade. Checkout our full length video below for rehab ideas from Cristiano Costa. Hangboard, pinch and farmer crimp trainer This portable climbing training board is designed for hangboarding, pinch training, and farmer crimps. Basically what I have commented for others is my training routine. k. a. Sep 21, 2017 · So like you kind of the way it seems to work out for me with hangboarding in general is I'll, I'll come into it, you know, I'll be going climbing or whatever and then I'll hit my training block. Mar 26, 2025 · Hangboarding targets this important element of climbing. These sets are crazy Aug 28, 2022 · Everything you need to know about hangboarding, beginner-advanced. The simplest approach for us is Pinch Block Training Hangboarding Hangboard Workout Tendon Health for Rock Climbers Rock Climbing Injury Prevention Climbing Apps Exercise for Climbing Climbing Safety Benefits of Rock Climbing Rock Climbing Stewardship Rest for Rock Climbing Outdoor Rock Climbing Female Climbers Climbing Community Benefits of Yoga for Rock Climbing Community Over the past 2 years, the Lattice coaches have replaced fingerboard workouts with lifting edge workouts in over 30% of training plans 🤯In this video we Feb 11, 2021 · A brand new hangboard regimen consisting of two sessions per day, everyday, without ever leaving the ground Yves gravelle has luck with it. Dec 29, 2024 · What It Is: Block pulls involve using a pinch or crimp grip to lift a weighted plates off the ground. The MXEdge Lift, Lattice Training’s lifting edge, features our most ergonomic edge to maximise finger strength training. Whether you’re a beginner aiming to build a solid foundation or an advanced climber preparing for your next hard route or competition, incorporating hangboarding effectively into your training schedule can make a significant difference. Tools for Effective Hangboard Training The following list of accessories painstakingly developed and tested over more than a decade by hangboarding lab monkeys, will help you get the most out of your hangboard workouts: Fan: Positioned to circulate air across the surface of the hangboard. Pinch block training, rock climbing 20 hours a week, forearm roller, wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, grippers, and hangboarding. Train your fingerstrength or use as travel hangboard Apr 22, 2025 · Many hangboards lack the option for pinch training. 4. also, as mentioned, hangboarding with drag grip, and pinch block training at any volume or intensity seems to have no negative effect on the finger at all. The Quad Block pinch grip training tool has been meticulously engineered by Lattice Training to provide a comprehensive grip training experience. Oct 5, 2022 · To help you harness the power of this training tool, I’m going to walk you through the essentials of hangboarding and then give you a simple 8-week beginner-friendly hangboard training program. Pinch grips are a cornerstone of climbing, demanding robust finger strength and enduring power. Here’s how to do it: Pinch Block: Use a pinch block or even a homemade device like a piece of wood. Jul 9, 2025 · Hangboarding is an essential training method for climbers looking to improve finger strength, endurance, and overall grip power. Feb 10, 2024 · Training blocks, like Tension Blocks or Metolius Wood Rock Rings, are a great alternative to hangboards. diff being you can start with less than bw. It involves using a block of wood with an eye-bolt screwed into the side, and then pinching from the side opposite to the eye-bolt. It is also a precise method of training that requires the participant to understand their current maximum strength, which allows them to set the intensity of their session to an exact The Redge Blok is the only pinch block you'll ever need! Large variety of grips. Does training one help with the other? I have looked up past questions regarding no hangs but haven't seen any posts strictly comparing numbers. Bouldering and System Training The short and simple advice for improving pinch strength, along with the associated techniques, is simply to gravitate toward problems that offer To purchase in Austria, Germany, or Switzerland, click here The Tension Block is a versatile, portable training tool designed for climbers to build finger and grip strength anywhere. Developed with input from renowned Coach Eric Horst, this block is versatile, ergonomic, and ideal for climbing-specific pinch strength. Repeat for 3-4 sets. I would only hangboard on pockets if it's for something specfic and for slopers I think pinch block transfers the best and has the added benefit of training pinch strenght. The ability to easily quantify (and increase!) the load from one session to another is very motivating. I've switched to mostly doing drag training on a nohang block because it feels like on fingeboard I'm limited more by skin and pain tolerance than finger strength. The Block might be the single most useful block of wood Tension has ever made. Finger strength training with a pinch block or porta-board attached to weights, otherwise called “no hangs” or “block pulls”, is another effective method for improving crimp strength. Finger strength is, perhaps, the only aspect of climbing fitness better trained off the wall rather than on, and yet this doesn’t mean that hangboarding will always be good for your climbing. In addition, however you mount your board, be sure that it cannot move in any Sep 27, 2025 · Pinch blocks are training tools for training pinch grip strength by lifting added weight, isolating a grip type often missed by standard hangboarding. If you can’t finish a set, end the workout. Jun 26, 2024 · A lifting edge is quickly becoming the essential training tool in every climber’s pack. (Unless your gym/local craig is majority pinches. Apr 7, 2024 · However, an alternative finger strength training method called Arm-Lifting or Block Pulls has recently gained popularity. Other than climbing itself, I have purchased a few Captains of Crush Grippers, a pinch block with loadable weight, and even some cannonball grips for pullups. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And then please tell all of your friends who spend their warmup time telling you that your hangboarding is only going to carry over to that one rare four-finger flat edge on a rock climb, that you have the perfect podcast for them. FYI, “No hang” is typically used to refer to lifting weight off of the ground using a “no hang” device (e. To hang—or not to hang—is a question The main direct benefit I've been getting from the routine is exposure to submax training in the 3fd position, which i was very weak and uncomfortable using it on the wall. Nov 8, 2022 · Surprised myself with this 49kg lift on the @latticetraining quad block after months away from pinch specific training! Love the feel and ergonomics on this grip training tool. Sep 18, 2024 · Featuring edges from 20mm down to 8mm and holds featuring two-finger and mono pockets as well as pinch grip options, the tension block is an excellent portable training and warmup tool. Hi, was looking into getting the Block by Tension Climbing to train finger strength without having to travel to my local climbing gym. Certainly, you can imagine that if you tested your max 20 mm weighted hang, and then did only pinch block training for a few months, your max hang would not increase. I have read that you can either improve your pinch grip (wide or narrow) through climbing routes with the grips you are trying to improve or by doing hangboarding/no hangs with the grips you wish to train. Thanks! I actually use the gripgenie pinch block but ironmind is good as well. I believe I might be going about grip training in the wrong manner. Pinch blocks, Rolling Handles, Loading Pins, Thick Bars. What you’re talking about is just hangboarding with your feet on the ground. Mar 1, 2021 · For all the popularity hangboarding has gained in this past year, it is a wonder that the pinch block hasn’t made a stronger showing. Use a carabiner and sling to connect a dumbbell or set of weight plates to the pinch I have been hangboarding for a little bit, mostly for half crimp grip (7s on 3s off for 10 reps, etc. This method replicates grip loading in a dynamic way with different force vector than hangboarding. jmk 8lnjf6l sfasf xwppwv vtfqv vo 6avnn x2ql anqru xinyg